Left Belhaven on Tuesday (23rd) for the Alligator Marina. My poor First Mate Harry was kind of nervous and shaking, and I thought perhaps that even though he had had a good walk, he might still have to go. Well he wasn’t telling me as much until we got underway so he was going to have to hold it.
Turns out that he was kind of traumatized by the previous days bouncing around. Even today, two days later he was nervous, but not as much. Fortunately we had amazingly calm waters the entire way to Alligator Marina thst day.
Alligator Marina
Every marina is somehow unique and distinct. This one was for the fact it sat behind a gas station/convenience store located along a busy road.
Located on the Alligator River, (and though there are alligators in and around it, it really gets its name from its shape, which looks like an alligator), its greatest attribute is its convenience to Ablemarle Sound.
The day we rolled in here was exceptionally calm, likely the calmest big water I’ve seen as I looked out into the big water of Ablemarle Sound. Had my First Mate not been so distressed, I would have kept going. Sadly we called it for the night.
The Ablemarle Sound
It doesn’t look like much on a map, but this is one of the largest stretches of exposed open water on the ICW. Catch it when the winds are not right, and you’re guaranteed to get beat up on it. Catch it in a smaller boat like mined and that’s a 💯 % probability.
The morning after we arrived I was up very early to check the wind. The only other boat in the harbor said based upon the forecast he’d be leaving early in the morning. I checked my two apps and bagged that idea. His boat was a wee bit bigger than mine. I’d already experienced that cork in a storm feeling a few days ago, and had no desire to traumatize poor Harry again.
That calm night before…
Leaving Alligator
This morning I was up at 5:15AM. Showered, walked Harry, and prepped the boat to leave. We were off at 6:30AM.
While I’d gotten “stuck” at the marina a 2nd night, I’d also managed to inherit a few extra lines another transient boater had left behind. I inquired about them in the store and was told they’d been there most of a week so feel free to take them. Now I have sufficient lines to cover all 6 cleats (three per side) when docking. I’ve found that due to “prop walk” when in reverse (the tendency of a single screw boat to always want to move in only one sideways motion), I’m almost always better docking on my starboard (right) side. But I’m not always afforded that option. So prepping both sides with lines and fenders works best.
Anyway, I took off into a NE wind, and was getting mildly quartered on the bow. I had two choices today — Coinjock (out near the coast) or Elizabeth City, and the ability to do the “Dismal Swamp”. While videos of the DS looked appealing on YouTube, I was going to let the wind dictate where I went.
The wind ended up telling me head to Coinjock (Indian word for Mulberry Bush).
Had I headed over towards Elizabeth City, instead of taking waves off the bow, I’d have spent 20 miles on the water getting rolled sideways. I’d rather take the bow beating, even with more open water.
While I started with 1-2 foot waves, by the 3/4 point I was getting 2-4’ waves. I was told later they were even worse.
Once I got off the Sound the wind just kept blowing. It was downright cold even though the air temperature was reasonable. It was blowing so strong and consistent all the way to Coinjock I wasn’t able to get fenders out until I was docked. Was very happy to have a few dock hands out today! Yes, I could have done it myself but it would have taken some swift footwork without the fenders.
As I type this the wind is still blowing, and it’s cold enough I paid for power to keep the heat on.
In front of me is a trimaran named “Arizona”. I’ve passed them in the past. Met them today. They seem very happy to be going slow while together!
Coinjock Marina
Just a bit before I was going to head in for dinner, a bunch of guys on Harleys pulled up. Given the brisk day I took the time a short while later to head into the bar and introduce myself. They all owned bikes and boats, and we had a great conversation about them all for the next 15 minutes. They were about ready to go, and I was hungry, so I excused myself and headed to the restaurant.
Earlier I’d been on the dock as a large cruiser came in, and shortly after that, the captain had been ashore and wanted to meet Harry. Well, he and his lady were in the restaurant, we got to talking, and I ended up having a great time at dinner with them. They even treated me! Thanks Jason & Chrissy!
Turns out we’re all originally Chicago area people, though they are still there. Definitely something different about people from the Midwest when it comes to friendliness! I’m going to give them a shout out when I pass down the river in Illinois.
Tomorrow I’m off to Atlantic Basin Marina south of Norfolk VA. Time to get fuel filters changed out. Another 5AM rise time. 😞 Supposed to be warmer tomorrow. Think I’ve had enough chillin’ today.
Great pictures as usual. Harry seems to have had a tough couple of days but being 1st Mate I'm sure he'll dog up. Enjoy.
Dan your photos are amazing! How is the boat holding up?